화장품 원료 기능 18가지 분류와 정의

화장품 하나를 제조하는 데 있어 굉장히 많은 원료가 사용된다. 원료들 모두가 각각의 기능을 담당하고 있기 때문에 제조하는 데 있어 각 성질을 고려한다면 더 안정성 있는 화장품을 만드는데 도움이 된다. 먼저 크게 원료들을 기능별로 분류하고 각 기능들이 화장품 제조에 있어 어떤 역할을 담당하는지 알아보자. 더 나아가 어떻게 다른 원료들과 상호작용하는지 화학적인 관점에서 정리하고 대표적으로 쓰이는 물질들 몇 가지를 알아보자. 

 

화장품 원료 기능 18가지 정의, 화학작용, 자주 사용되는 물질 정리표

	Function type	Definition	Chemical interaction	Materials example
1	Emollient	Ingredients that soften and smooth the skin by forming a protective layer, reducing water loss, and enhancing texture.	Reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by forming a hydrophobic barrier on the skin surface.	Oils, butters, silicones, esters
2	Humectant	Substances that attract and retain moisture in the skin by drawing water from the deeper layers or the environment.	Use hydroxyl and other polar groups to bind water molecules, helping to hydrate the skin.	Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea
3	Occlusives	Ingredients that create a barrier on the skin's surface, helping to lock in moisture and prevent water loss.	Form a non-penetrating, often hydrophobic layer on the skin surface, sealing in moisture and preventing TEWL.	Petrolatum, beeswax, lanolin
4	Surfactants	Compounds that reduce surface tension, allowing for effective cleansing, foaming, or emulsification.	Contains both hydrophilic (water-attracting) and lipophilic (oil-attracting) groups, allowing them to mix oil and water.	Sodium lauryl sulfate, coco-betaine
5	Emulsifiers	Agents that enable the mixing of oil and water phases, creating stable emulsions (creams, lotions)	Have amphiphilic (both oil- and water-attracting) molecules that stabilize oil droplets in water (or vice versa).	Lecithin, polysorbates, PEG-40
6	Polymers	Large molecules that provide structure, stability, and texture to products; are often used as thickeners or film formers.	Create a network or matrix in the formulation, improving viscosity, stability, and sometimes texture.	Carbomers, silicone elastomers
7	Preservatives	Substances that inhibit microbial growth to prolong shelf life and ensure safety by preventing contamination.	Disrupt microbial cell walls, inhibit cellular metabolism, or create an environment unfavorable to microbial growth.	Parabens, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol
8	Solvents	Liquids that dissolve other ingredients, allow for uniform distribution and enhance skin absorption.	Dissolve polar or non-polar ingredients to create a homogenous product; often improving spreadability.	Water, alcohol, propylene glycol
9	Exfoliants	Ingredients that help remove dead skin cells, either through chemical or physical means, to reveal smoother skin.	Break down proteins (in chemical exfoliants) or use abrasives (in physical exfoliants) to slough off dead cells.	AHAs (glycolic acid), BHAs (salicylic acid), scrubs
10	UV Filters	Agents that protect the skin from harmful UV radiation, used in sunscreens to prevent sun damage.	Absorb or reflect UV radiation, preventing it from penetrating the skin and causing damage.	Zinc oxide, avobenzone, octinoxate
11	Thickeners	Ingredients that increase the viscosity of a formulation, giving it a desired consistency or feel.	Absorb water, swell, or interact with other molecules to increase viscosity; often long-chain polymers.	Xanthan gum, carbomer, cellulose
12	Conditioning Agents	Ingredients that provide a soft, smooth feel to skin or hair, improving texture and manageability.	Often positively charged (cationic) molecules adhere to the negatively charged surface of hair/skin, reducing friction and static.	Silicones (dimethicone), cationic surfactants
13	pH Adjusters	Agents are used to adjust and maintain the optimal pH of a product, ensuring stability and skin compatibility.	Act as acids, bases, or buffers to adjust the pH, helping to maintain the stability and function of other ingredients.	Citric acid, sodium hydroxide
14	Chelating Agents	Ingredients that bind to metal ions, improving formulation stability and enhancing preservative effectiveness.	Form complexes with metal ions, preventing them from catalyzing oxidation reactions that could degrade the product.	EDTA, disodium EDTA, phytic acid
15	Antioxidants	Ingredients that protect the formulation and skin from oxidation and free radical damage.	Donate electrons to neutralize free radicals, preventing oxidative degradation of ingredients or skin lipids.	Vitamin E (tocopherol), ascorbic acid
16	Colorants	Pigments or dyes added for visual appeal, either for the product itself or to add color to the skin.	Absorb or reflect specific wavelengths of light, creating color in the product or on the skin.	Iron oxides, mica, FD&C dyes
17	Fragrances	Compounds added to provide a pleasant scent to the product, enhancing the user experience.	Volatile molecules that release aroma, some may also mask unpleasant smells from other ingredients.	Essential oils, synthetic fragrance
18	Film Formers	Compounds that create a protective, flexible film on the skin, used in hair sprays, mascaras, or sunscreens.	Form a cohesive, flexible layer that adheres to the skin or hair and provides durability and resistance to moisture.	PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone), acrylates